Day 4, the big one.....

So once again we arose to a great breakfast, I swim my way through coffee and devoured, I swear it was, half a pig, combined with, what must have been, a weeks worth of bread. After our visit to the tourist office in Lamego, we had heard that there was a possibility that maybe there could be discovered, if it was plausible, a location that made cider. Which, as some of you may know, is something we would dearly love to learn to make here in Poland and maybe start a small cottage industry.... if only we had a cottage! (yes, the jokes get no better!) The location was the small town of Alijo, the other side of the river and a windy drive away. We set off post haste, ignoring many Quintas with the thought of Cider in our minds. We drove through some gorgeous and remote country side, down tiny little roads where we wouldn't see another car for extended periods of time. The Lonely Planet was right, as soon as you turn off the main roads, cars are rarely seen. Which was great, with the exception that Marta was slowly turning green from the constant hairpin turns and precision driving of Garth Schumaker.

We made it into the town of Alijo and it was indeed a pretty little place with a lovely shaded parque on the edge of the 'old' town. We parked here (or is that parqued?) and strolled the street, as we were hungry (yes, again). We found a nice little cafe and I bought the cheapest coffee I had found in all of Portugal, at 40cents, not only cheap but it was actually the best. I really enjoyed it, hence my demands of a second being met with a slight frown from Marta for fear of me bouncing off the car interior with caffeine. She allowed me another as long as I bought us icecreams too. Sold! We asked around about the address we had been given by the Lamego tourism office, but no one had heard of it! So the drive was fruitless but not bean a total waste (apple is a fruit so fruitless and coffee is in bean form... ok, Garth, if you need to explain your jokes they aren't funny!)
So, we jumped on a larger and much straighter main road to cruise into Vila Real. Famous for its football team and another age old tradition of Mateus wines. You know, the one which so many restaurants and people of the 70's-80's put candles in. The green bottle was flask shaped and had the palace on the label.

Here in Vila Real, we popped into the tourist office again to ask about simplest directions to see the Mateus Palace, and then we looked for somewhere to eat. We found a place that was a hubbub with activity.

All locals (it appeared) packed into a simple looking eatery. We ducked in to see what this commotion was about. We were seated promptly, even though the two levels of the place were heaving with hungry punters. We had a delightful couple next to us, a little tipsy, but delightful none the less. They gave us some recommendations from the vast menu.

House Special Cod. Also the entree servings of black pudding and grilled sausage can be seen on the left along with the vinho verde, yum yum.

Daily Special Baby goat (cabrito) Deeeeeeelicious!
and we tried in a bravest Portuguese to say "thank you", and ask them more questions. Many were lost in the noise or the happy alcohol haze that was in their minds at the time. Then I commenced my attack on the innocent baby goat.

It was indeed delicious, washed down with some delightful vinho verde. I was in heaven. This was probably one of the greatest meals I had during my time in Portugal, it goes along with one of my adages which is "if you can't get messy while eating, there is no point eating", or something to that caveman effect. Food is some of my greatest memories in life.... yes, Asta, even Hakarl in Iceland...... well maybe Hakarl..... For non-Icelanders or people who know not of Hakarl, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hakarl . I do vow to try it again though... surely, it wasn't as bad as I thought. Anyway I digress..... often!

After the meal it was off to tackle the next challenge of my day, more will be revealed later. The stop was to be the Mateus Palace on the edge of Vila Real. It is really a pretty place and we spent some time strolling about the beautiful gardens admiring the scenes that had been well sculptured over time (the last 2 centuries to be exact).


The coat of arms of the Palace.

The view that greets you as you walk down the drive and around the corner to the Palace.

The manicured hedges are really nice, I couldn't imagine the patience required for topiary.

Vine covered walkway

Grapes of said vine

Ok, I think it is time to go on a diet when you get stuck in the hedge tunnels!

So after strolling we decided to taste some wines, so the first distinction to be made is something that is also hugely emphasised by the people of the 'new' Mateus wines is that the wine you can still buy in this odd flask shaped bottle is not the Mateus now. That is what they refer to as "coca-cola". The estate now has a new label with new and better wines. That, I can personally indeed attest to. We were lucky enough to have a delightful young lady behind the wine counter, who after talking to us, realised that we were fabulous people and connoisseurs of fine wines. So instead of giving us just the normal three wines, she took us on a journey through their entire collection from the 4Euros through to the 50Euros. I love it when people restore your faith in humanity!

Wine Eye.


Wine Try.


Wine Cry


And Wine buy!

Due to her assistance, generosity and devotion to information and customer service, we bought a three pack of wines! It had nothing to do with the wooden box (I am a sucker for them!) and the fact they all tasted great, nothing at all......

Marty was a little tipsy now, so we hit the road and drove on towards our accommodation, so that maybe, we could sun by the pool. On the way home we saw the name of a Quinta which caught our eye. Dona Matilde.

This was because a long story which is when Marta and I first spent some time together I sung her "waltzing Matilda", the Australian anthem of stealing and escapism. She loved it, we have also said that when we have a daughter, we will call her Matilda as it is really a lovely name, and hopefully she can steal us sheep too! Anyway, we eyed the advert across the river, so we ducked off over the weir/lock bridge and headed up a very rickety and rough road to the Quinta. On arrival we found a really beautiful place, full of Hydrangeas and other beautiful flowers, but no people and no cellar door to taste wine! So instead I decided to propose that Marta marry me. She said "No" cried a lot,

and then explained, that she meant "I can't say, no. Things this good aren't meant to happen".

So yes it was a nice cover up by her.

I gave her my late mothers engagement ring, and it seems to make her pleased.

Thanks little winery of no wine!

Later in our travels we discovered that this winery was part of a large corporation, and it now has been bought back by the original owners. So it soon will be making their own branded wines again! We will endeavour to locate these to celebrate with. Maybe that will mean we need to return to Portugal... what a shame that would be!

After this and some rapid phone calls home to Poland to explain that we aren't pregnant, Australia was later in the day due to time difference, we headed off to taste some more wines. This time we headed to Quinta Royal Porto.



Which is based right on the Douro on the fringes of Pinhao. We tried almost all the ports that we could muster.


Muscat, White, Tawny, Reserva, Ruby

We bought a Muscat which made me feel all creative.


We returned home, with smiles abound, and ducked out for a quick dip in the delightful pool. It over looks vineyards, on both sides of the Douro, and is certainly one of the most impressive locations, view wise, that I have swum in.


That evening we had some delicious House Port to start things, this was before we had another hearty home cooked, by our hosts, meal. They celebrated our engagement with the other guests at the house with champagne and lots of red wine.

Overall, I don't think the day could be better.